Daniel Sturm
Journalism & Research
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How Marx Transformed Into A Truffle
European Press Network (Paris), November, 2001
Karl Marx is becoming a sweet nostalgia in eastern Germany. Chemnitz, which took on the name "Karl-Marx-City" during the communist era, is now producing a "Karl Marx Truffle."
By Daniel Sturm
Karl Marx is becoming a sweet nostalgia in eastern Germany. Chemnitz, which took on the name "Karl-Marx-City" during the communist era, is now producing a "Karl Marx Truffle." This nougat, available in three styles, is a creation of the confectioner, Evelin Doell. In her Zucker-Mäusel ("little sugar-mouse") cakeshop, Karl Marx has become popular among fans of both communist pop art and gourmet chocolates.
"Marx had a taste for delicacies, although he couldn't always afford it," says Mrs. Doell, a woman who knows all about the philosopher's life. The confectioner worked as a librarian during the GDR, "an occupation where one had to read the Communist Manifesto." In 1999 she applied for a patent on the chocolates, and also for their trademark, "Chemnitz truffles with a head on their shoulders." This motto alluded to the city's new slogan "Chemnitz - the city with brains" (Chemnitz - Stadt mit Köpfchen), as well as to the huge monument of Marx's head which still towers over downtown's main square.
The Marx sculpture was created in 1971 by the Soviet artist, Lev Kerbel. It is the size of a small apartment complex, and weighs 40 tons. After the collapse of the Berlin Wall, Chemnitz's monument stirred quite a debate. There were also hostile responses when Mrs. Doell's cakeshop first introduced its bite-size truffle, topped with a white chocolate plate depicting Karl Marx's portrait. Conservatives called the truffle "tasteless." One Christian Democratic Party (CDU) depute remarked that communist hardliners, in particular, should realize Marx's memory didn't deserve this commercial treatment.
Meanwhile, entrepreneur Evelin Doell believes the controversy over Karl Marx's sweet heritage is past. "Most of my clients consider it to be a nice specialty souvenir."
The Marx Truffle has allowed her cakeshop to grow into a small family company. Both her spouse, Hans, and children, Jana and Mario, have joined in on the post-socialist nostalgia industry. Zucker-Mäusel employs eight people and runs three branches within Chemnitz. Because the truffles alone would be a narrow market, the Doell's are also in the wine and whiskey business. For the last two years they've been selling an original Karl Marx champagne, with designer label. Nowadays it's design, rather than Sein (being), that seems to rule consciousness.
Karl Marx Truffles on the web:
www.zucker-maeusel.de
